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Wonderful!

I appreciate an old RAS like the next guy but with all this set-up, wouldn't it be so much better and easier to use your table saw? Even though the RAS is able to do this type of cut, it's not the best choice.

Question regarding the adjustable infeed fence. Can I use that with a Craftsman ras? Not sure why I couldn't unless it's geared only for Dewalt.

Thank you for this extensive, real world testing. Subscribed. Very interesting. I've been using radial arm saws for about 15 years now and have always had either the LU83 or the WW1 on my saw. After watching this i will expand my thinking beyond the forum. I recently had some old (really old) 5" white oak to rip and the WW1 was abysmal at this task. I have *a lot* of sanding to do. For the rest I'll throw the LU83 on and see what the difference is, and I'll get a dedicated rip blade. I think when someone dives in as deep as you do and uses their noggin, you can do this safely. If you don't really dive deep into saw calibration and appropriate blade choice for the medium (ie 3 teeth in contact with the wood during a rip cut), you maybe shouldn't be using a radial arm saw. Though the same could be said for any power tool. Thanks again!

Awesomr awesome video. You channel got me convinced that the ras is the way to do iy in a small shop. I went online and got an mfg which is dewalt black & decker 10" with somr olastic on top but cast iron on the rest of the arm. I tried it with the seller and got it for $150 including the table, fence. Noy sure if this was a good buy? But im happy I got the only one in my area that i can afford.

very thorough rundown lots of things the average person wouldn't consider when selecting a saw. I think the only thing you may have skimmed over a little was power. When discussing the concept of more industrial focused saws is the fact that the larger industrial saws (1.5HP+) are frequently 3 phase. Not an insurmountable problem, but the average hobbyist wont have access to 3 phase power and would need to purchase a phase converter. Which is an additional expense and requires some basic electrical knowledge to select and install.

Thanks for the video. It inspired me to make one for my old Dewalt.

Love this! Thank you for simple, thorough explinations. And I love the hand tools too.

Have you tried "crosscutting" the cheek of a tenon with a rip blade (30t looks like itd be safe) with the blade in the moulder position, parallel to the table and the arm 90 to the fence, as normal? Its a cross cutting motion with rip geometry... Im just wondering if the climb would worry you? Or, is it controllable since the blade is trying to climb against the work and twist the arm/carriage, rather than a normal perendicular crosscut which climbs against the more rigid table.

Interesting historical tool overview. I'm glad this extremely dangerous and, to be honest, stupid tools (clamp, unclamp, move, scoop. install, reinstall, blah-blah for every simple cut) are not used anymore.

What would you recommend for the most RAS friendly dado blade?

Thanks for that. I wouldn't have gone to all the trouble over that one bead. I would have filled that with the bondo at the same time as the screw holes. I built some very large barn doors this summer for a customer and just used plain tongue and groove. The price of#2 pine now is outrageous. I hated to give the customer the bill.

No missing fingers! Bravo.

After watching this for the third time I'm making one for my RAS. Thank you

I have a new in box K200 for sale

Any thoughts on blades for plastic or nonferrous metals? They seem to be the closest matchup and with a negative hook angle. Hard to find actual radial arm saw blades these days.

Really enjoyed watching your video... I recently bought an older Ridgid 14" bandsaw- it's gray not orange. Based on your video I decided to get the Grizzly riser block because it was on sale and save me about $30. It fit like a glove but did have to use a step drill to allow the top section of the saw to sit properly.The bottom was no problem.. !!? It works great BUT the 105" blades are nearly impossible to get on because the fit is way too tight. Did you experience this too? Or have you heard of anyone else have this problem? Thanks again for the well done video, Larry

Appreciate the fact this was for demonstration, but it would be so much faster to just clamp the straight edge and follow with a circular saw… you have the same issue of the blade cutting upwards and leaving splinters on the top of the workpiece, but you could actually reduce it with the skilsaw by using a guide with the edge being the actual edge of the cut…. (2 layer hardboard guide/jig) and it’s so much faster…….

WD-40 has a high concentration of wax, and if you don’t get it off it will be even harder to move…. If you want to clean it use brake cleaner or PB Blaster if it’s got surface rust and grime

Nah…. if you spin the head for the left handed miter there will be absolutely no problems if you just clamp it down like a white boy…..

I would only run one on 240V….. but I’m an electrician and it doesn’t cost me much to get it that way…… however, with RUclips and the internet today if you’re handy you can probably figure it out….. there are great electrician videos out there

I really appreciate your videos .

Question with boldness

Hi, thanks for this video. Curious if you have a copy of the K2 instruction manual that you might be able to share. I haven't been able to find one online.

Thanks

Hubby here. Thank you for a great lesson and demo. I was thinking of replacing my table saw with a radial arm saw. Thanks for helping me decide.

One important factor to consider if you purchase a used radial arm saw. The older cast iron radial arm saws hold their settings much better. Just make sure it was kept in a dry environment and that the saw head moves smoothly. Listen for possible motor bearing issues as it starts and as it slowed down.

I do hope you consider a similar blade comparison test with lower powered 8 or 10” saws at some point. 🤔

I understand you’re an above average RAS operator, one thing I wonder with a new user, or even inexperienced user, are there concerns about choosing to have dedicated blades, yet there is an introduction of issues with resetting the saw blade each time you have to change the blade? I could be totally wrong, but I assume one doesn’t just slap on a new blade and get to cutting, there is runout checks and blade orientation steps each blade change, or poor results, or potentially dangerous cutting concerns happening. Especially with the lower end Craftsman or Dewalt saws many users likely are operating.🤔

I have a Craftsman rotary planer with 3 carbide cutters. They have worn to the level of the inner part of the planer itself. I am also of the belief they need a bot of sharpening. Have you ever done this? If so, can you share with us how? Thanks, - Matt

Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, you do an awesome job explaining things in detail, nice work. I inherited a RAS from my grandfather who used it for over 30 years, made 100s of pieces of furniture with it, died an old man with all 10 fingers and never burnt down the neighborhood!

After much help from you, I completed the complete rebuild including steel-reinforced , 3-piece table, of the craftsman 12” (1971), and brother, what a machine. It’s been about 6 months now and I haven’t used my table saw once except as a surface for glue-ups. Ripping is so much easier and safer. I’m so glad I began with a COMPLETE rebuilding or I never would have come to understand the intricacies of these fantastic machines. I realize now that the fear and frustration I have always heard about RAS were wives tales born from, “WARNING: Failure to read and understand all …”

Awesome technique! Do you also use outfeed for ripping, or just infeed?

Thanks, I really appreciate you making these videos. I bought the same 14" Delta Rockwell saw, and will be rebuilding it this winter. It is in excellent condition and hopefully won't need much work. Ozark Mountain had my owner's/parts manual. The saw came without the anti-kickback setup and the leaves. Renovo parts says they have them, but the price is almost as much as I paid for the saw. One question, do you plan on incorporating a riving knife? I will be ripping some long boards. Thanks again.

When I was a young man, I worked at Systi-Matic, making and repairing quality carbide tipped blades from 7-1/4" up to mill edgers. I worked my way up to Hammersmith from the entry level position of pre-tinning each and every carbide bit by hand and tweezer. The issue of T.I.R. (Total Indicated Runout) was taken very seriousy. We hand hammered our plate before and after the brazing -in of the tips to make sure there was no more than .003" TIR. There is no way a manufacturer can know the conditions in which their blades will be used, so that was the general target of precision. Here's a tip for reducing runout: 1)Mount the blade and with a dial indicator or even a static height gage with a needle point, indicate the high area of the plate as it rotates. Mark kit. It's an area - not a point, so don't get too fussy. 2) Loosen the blade and rotate it 180 degrees on the arbor and repeat. Do not move the collars when you do this or rotae the arbor itself - just the plate. If the arbor and collars are in the same plane, the blade is at fault and rotating it will - or should - reduce or split the difference in TIR. A blade that runs within .003" is very quiet. Don't neglect the adjustment for heel. With a quality RAS, it is possible with some fussery to adjust heel to within .0015" if your arbor and collars are very good, and you have rotated the blade to minimize TIR.

If you are a hand talker, you have to step back from your blade when you are talking lol. I was puckered up thinking you were about to wang your knuckle on that stationary blade. "RUclipsr taken out today by non running radial arm saw and is own exuberance". :) thanks for a really really good video. I learned a lot.

I loosened those two nuts under the AMF cap to tilt the blade a bit and couldn't get it to move to save my soul. The regular instruction manual doesn't say this, but the manual labelled "Instructions, Maintenance and Parts" for the MB and GW models says on some models it may be necessary to also loosen the big center nut (Y23). Once I did that she turned easy as pie! Got the blade square...which let me discover my table is out of square, so tomorrow I'll adjust it.

Dude, I’m so interested in your videos, your great instructor. But I wish you’d make them shorter. There’s so much dialogue that is entirely consequential to some of the less you’re teaching. And you’re amazing, your knowledge is incredible and I really am excited to learn more about my radio alarms. Just a friendly and respectful tip for you, sir, truly appreciate all the information you provided. Thank you.

💥🎇✨🚀

I have a cordless brushed drill and I like it just fine, that being said I also have a 14 yr old Milwaukee corded brushed drill I like even better. I do also have a hammer drill, but my shop has concrete block walls and floor and if I want to anchor anything in there or hand anything in there it's a neccessity. I find the impact driver handy when I'm driving lag bolts into deck posts. My woodshop doubles as my garage where I also keep tools for working on my vehicles so a lot of the tools I have serve double duty. While I love my 1956 DeWalt MBF RAS, I prefer to do miter cuts on my table saw because I can set up the miter gauge on it a lot faster than on the DeWalt. The numbers on the DeWalt are very small and I need my cheaters to be able to see them clearly. Some day I'll also get a Delta Multiplex 20 and maybe it will be easier to set? I'm not sure if my circular saw has a rolled stamped footplate or not, but if it does, I'm not worried as I have a clamping adjustable length fence for anything up to 4 feet that I can use as a straight edge to guide the saw.

So, would this equipment work with an MBF model, or would it not be powerful enough?

watching for the 3 rd time, thanks so much ...Paul

Are those bearings a roller or ball type or are they more of a babbitt type bearing? If they're ball or roller type I might try removing them to clean them out with lacquer thinner which will dissolve the old hard grease and then re-pack the bearings with new grease, in much the same way folks used to pack wheel bearings on old cars back in the day. Two of the table bolts on mine, the heads are stripped out which is going to necessitate cutting out some of the original table so I can get a pair of vise-grips on them to back them out (My base only has 8 bolts as it sits on a DeWalt cabinet instead of a DeWalt table). Hope I can find replacement Philips head bolts like it has.

I think on the final crank up of the column, instead of just trying to wipe off the WD-40 that I'd spray the column with some Brakleen or other brake parts cleaner as it will dissolve the WD-40 and dry almost as fast as you can wipe it. My RAS was very dirty when I brought it home and the WD-40 and Brakleen made short work of cleaning all the years of gunky buildup off of it. I feel fortunate to have been able to get a DeWalt MB model as all the adjustments will be in the same places as what I'm watching in this video. I have a large piece of thick laminate mdf I can use on the base that used to be the top of an office desk that was never used. I used to work for Kimball Office Casegoods and bought the desktop there at an employee auction where we could bid on items that for one reason or another they wouldn't sell to the public (Usually a bad drawer or a chip somewhere in the piece). While I don't have a 2nd RAS to rip the mdf, I do have a Rockwell 9" contractor saw that should be able to accomplish the same thing.

I just picked up a toolkraft model 1000 , it’s in great shape and I’m in love with it. I’m struggling to find any accessories for it online, does anyone have any recommendations on where to look or what other brand attachments work?

I try to keep my radial arm saws out of the wild or they get wet. Maybe some day they will make a cordless radial arm saw thats also water proof, you can take to the job and use. <<<< dewalt whats yah doing?

One problem it sucks too my dile indicators magnetic base won't lock onto the plywood. Oh hold it you lock it on the blade that way you can turn the arm, and the saw blade maybe it is like a monarch cnc. Or bridgeport mill.

20:31 Like you just did on your first cut. Never reach inside the blade and fence, use a push block even on wide cuts. I'll tell you why When i got my new craftsman i did a rip cut feeding the wrong way The blade took a bite into my stock And the over arm turned about 30dgr i pooped my pants the only thing the stopped it the blade bent and stopped spinning i shut the saw off had my arm been between the fence and saw blade it would have taken my arm off. I changed my shorts bought a new blade and started paying attention To feed directions closer. I also invested in board buddies for a radial arm saw. Then hold your work to the fence and down on the table make the top of the fence wider then the slot i just used a door jam the striker part is 2" wile the stop is 1.5" the base on the board buddies is 2" i only use that fence to rip with, and its great for narrow cuts not sure about thin rips. I also made a separate one to use a shaper cutter. MR sawdust has a jig for doing perfect 45dgr cuts the fit perfectly His son posted the jig on youtube. When i bought my saw there was nothing on youtube about the RAS its extremely good people keep adding content. Thank you. They got a bad rep for no good reason. Yes people got hurt on them there are rules you need to fallow never take a tool for granted. Stop running your arms and hands past the blade. Stay safe. Use push blocks and feather boards hell run a screw into the table to hold the feather board in place if you have to. You can sand the hole smooth and fill it with sawdust and glue your going to cut into it anyway.

What an excellent video. You have gone a long way towards demystifying my Craftsman Radial Arm saw! Thanks, Don.